Anybody interested in pond building techniques?
- Thread starter dannyboy
- Start date
dannyboy
From the promised LAND
Well, the latest project is done, except for a little bit of clean up.
This pond was going to be a rubber liner pond, but because of a little rock that we found in the "deep" end, we had to spray it with the liner.
The gray color that is shown weathers to a silvery greenish gray that is very natural looking. But the only places you will see it is in the bottom.
The customer loves swimming in the pond with the fish, its almost 10,000 gallons which is the size of most small pools.
Almost 12 pallets of stone mortared into place, and that is what took so long to finish.
d
This pond was going to be a rubber liner pond, but because of a little rock that we found in the "deep" end, we had to spray it with the liner.
The gray color that is shown weathers to a silvery greenish gray that is very natural looking. But the only places you will see it is in the bottom.
The customer loves swimming in the pond with the fish, its almost 10,000 gallons which is the size of most small pools.
Almost 12 pallets of stone mortared into place, and that is what took so long to finish.
d
dannyboy
From the promised LAND
And while not a built pond, this Sunday started out normally, but at 9:30AM got a call from the proud owner of the pond above stating she had a problem. Seems like a deer got in and could not get out.
Grabbed my camera and found her in the pond keeping the deer's head above the water. It seems that when the small buck jumped the fence he didn't know the pond was slick and broke its jaw. It also dislocated its hip, so while it struggled, it could not get itself out.
We took it to some great people that do rehab. Dont know if it will make it or not, the jaw was pretty shattered.
While small, it did weigh 56 pounds, more than she could wrestle out of the pond on her own.
d
Grabbed my camera and found her in the pond keeping the deer's head above the water. It seems that when the small buck jumped the fence he didn't know the pond was slick and broke its jaw. It also dislocated its hip, so while it struggled, it could not get itself out.
We took it to some great people that do rehab. Dont know if it will make it or not, the jaw was pretty shattered.
While small, it did weigh 56 pounds, more than she could wrestle out of the pond on her own.
d
dannyboy
From the promised LAND
Over the next few weeks I will try and show those of you that want, a build from the ground up. the way I do ponds are to be either low, or no maitainance. It costs a bit more up front, but the paybacks are healthier fish, better looks, and more time enjoying the pond instead of cleaning it.
Those of you with pools understand part of what I am talking about. Especially if you have had the pools for 10 years or more.
And if you dont want to build your own, then at least if you get someone to do it, maybe I can help keep you from getting shafted.
d
Those of you with pools understand part of what I am talking about. Especially if you have had the pools for 10 years or more.
And if you dont want to build your own, then at least if you get someone to do it, maybe I can help keep you from getting shafted.
d
dannyboy
From the promised LAND
Well its been a hectic week. Rained some, so I had some time to cruise the boards.
The pond I am working on now is a bit larger than most, almost two acres.
Thursday we unloaded 48000 pounds of stone for the water falls and grotto. We will start on it on Wednesday, hopefully when the fountain comes in. We are currently pumping almost 200 gallons a minute into the pond from a creek that is 1000 feet away. As you can see, almost 7 feet of water within 24 hours.
As you can see, some of the rock we had to move around were the size of full sized pickups. Several will be on the outside as accent pieces, while others will be deep in the pond. One will be half out and half in the water. I liked it because it kinda looks like the sphinx from the side. Will post photos of it when it gets a bit fuller. The water will be right at the flat spot if I measured it right. Weighed over 30 ton. Safety is of utmost concern.
Also on the agenda for this week is the planning of a beaver habitat at the wildlife rescue. Dont have any money so this one will be a freebie. Right now they only have a concrete pad and chain link fencing. A 10 gallon tub is all the water they have.
d
The pond I am working on now is a bit larger than most, almost two acres.
Thursday we unloaded 48000 pounds of stone for the water falls and grotto. We will start on it on Wednesday, hopefully when the fountain comes in. We are currently pumping almost 200 gallons a minute into the pond from a creek that is 1000 feet away. As you can see, almost 7 feet of water within 24 hours.
As you can see, some of the rock we had to move around were the size of full sized pickups. Several will be on the outside as accent pieces, while others will be deep in the pond. One will be half out and half in the water. I liked it because it kinda looks like the sphinx from the side. Will post photos of it when it gets a bit fuller. The water will be right at the flat spot if I measured it right. Weighed over 30 ton. Safety is of utmost concern.
Also on the agenda for this week is the planning of a beaver habitat at the wildlife rescue. Dont have any money so this one will be a freebie. Right now they only have a concrete pad and chain link fencing. A 10 gallon tub is all the water they have.
d
Got a question for you Danny. Couple actually. First off Algae, how do you get rid of it and keep the water clear?? I have tried cleaning the pond and within a week the algae starts coming back.
And second, a friend of mine has a mud pond on his property that loses water all the time, and has an ornate amount of algae growth. The entire surface of the pond is completely covered with green sludge. He has tried to put fish in it and they keep dieing.
Not sure what else to do with either of these.. Any hel you can give me would be appreciated.
And second, a friend of mine has a mud pond on his property that loses water all the time, and has an ornate amount of algae growth. The entire surface of the pond is completely covered with green sludge. He has tried to put fish in it and they keep dieing.
Not sure what else to do with either of these.. Any hel you can give me would be appreciated.
dannyboy
From the promised LAND
First off, how old is the pond that has the algae problem? It is not unusual for a pond to take up to 6 months to "break in". THat is when the algea on the sides of the pond out compete the floating algea that is turning the water green for nutrients and starves it. Over night you will have clear water where the day before you could not see anything.
Oh by the way, quit cleaning it out. The only thing that needs cleaning is the crap off the bottom. Leave the algea coats on the sides and bottom alone. They are your best friend when it comes to a ballanced pond.
As for the mud pond with the "green turds" floating around on the top. IF you will notice, they appear usually more during the day, then at night, sink back to the bottom. A fountain or other air producing mechanism like air diffusers work very well in this type of pond. They are a bit pricey but worth the improvents they make on a pond. Personally I like the fountains better, but then they do cost about 50% more than the bottom diffusers.
The reason they keep dying is the algea. The algea produces O2 during daylight hours, but over night, it takes the O2 out of the water and releases CO2 in the form of carbonic acid. This is no good for fish. So if he wants success with fish, he will have to add some additional air to the pond.
As for losing the water, he needs to pinpoint where the water is leaking from. The narrower the area the less costly the fix will be. There is a good Sodium Bentonite clay that you can put in over the top, and in most cases it will seal the leak pretty good. The 50 pound bags run about 8 bucks. But you have to get the good stuff. There is a lot of crap that is sold as sealer sodium bentonite clay, and some is used in well drilling also. It is also not meant for sealing ponds.
There is a company that can add some chemicals to the water, and they get between 60 -80% inprovement with the leaks, but that is a whole pond treatment, and is costly. But if you dont have a clue where the leak is, that would be the way to go.
Hope that helps.
d
Oh by the way, quit cleaning it out. The only thing that needs cleaning is the crap off the bottom. Leave the algea coats on the sides and bottom alone. They are your best friend when it comes to a ballanced pond.
As for the mud pond with the "green turds" floating around on the top. IF you will notice, they appear usually more during the day, then at night, sink back to the bottom. A fountain or other air producing mechanism like air diffusers work very well in this type of pond. They are a bit pricey but worth the improvents they make on a pond. Personally I like the fountains better, but then they do cost about 50% more than the bottom diffusers.
The reason they keep dying is the algea. The algea produces O2 during daylight hours, but over night, it takes the O2 out of the water and releases CO2 in the form of carbonic acid. This is no good for fish. So if he wants success with fish, he will have to add some additional air to the pond.
As for losing the water, he needs to pinpoint where the water is leaking from. The narrower the area the less costly the fix will be. There is a good Sodium Bentonite clay that you can put in over the top, and in most cases it will seal the leak pretty good. The 50 pound bags run about 8 bucks. But you have to get the good stuff. There is a lot of crap that is sold as sealer sodium bentonite clay, and some is used in well drilling also. It is also not meant for sealing ponds.
There is a company that can add some chemicals to the water, and they get between 60 -80% inprovement with the leaks, but that is a whole pond treatment, and is costly. But if you dont have a clue where the leak is, that would be the way to go.
Hope that helps.
d
dannyboy
From the promised LAND
STL
There are three basic types of algea. The single cell type that turns your water pea soup green, String algea, and what I call carpet algea.
The first two you dont want, and from what you post, your problem is with string algea. The carpet algea is about 1/4=1/2inches long. This in most pond is your best friend. This coat of green houses millions of creatures and bacteria that are needed for the pond to be healthy for fish. Destroy it, and the pond will remain green for as long as 6 months. Protect it, and it will keep your pond humming along with healthy water for your fish.
One thing you can try for the string algea is a product called Thrive Clay. When used per instructions it will usually kill the string algea in short order and keep it under control. In stream beds or water falls, you can use Hydrogen peroxide (the 3%solution that you can pick up for 50 cents a bottle). I buy a cheap spray bottle, take the sprayer off the top and screw it onto the HP bottle. CUt off your water falls or stream bed, spray it on and let it sit for a while-15 minutes is good, then rinse off.
But over all, the thrive clay works best with the least side effects. We mix the clay in with the fish food for added brillance of color and a sheen to the skin that is unbeleiveable. Good stuff. IF you have a problem finding it at your local ponding supply store, PM me and I can send you some. Fact is on the thrive, the Indians many years ago used the clay to settle upset stomachs and other ills.
d
There are three basic types of algea. The single cell type that turns your water pea soup green, String algea, and what I call carpet algea.
The first two you dont want, and from what you post, your problem is with string algea. The carpet algea is about 1/4=1/2inches long. This in most pond is your best friend. This coat of green houses millions of creatures and bacteria that are needed for the pond to be healthy for fish. Destroy it, and the pond will remain green for as long as 6 months. Protect it, and it will keep your pond humming along with healthy water for your fish.
One thing you can try for the string algea is a product called Thrive Clay. When used per instructions it will usually kill the string algea in short order and keep it under control. In stream beds or water falls, you can use Hydrogen peroxide (the 3%solution that you can pick up for 50 cents a bottle). I buy a cheap spray bottle, take the sprayer off the top and screw it onto the HP bottle. CUt off your water falls or stream bed, spray it on and let it sit for a while-15 minutes is good, then rinse off.
But over all, the thrive clay works best with the least side effects. We mix the clay in with the fish food for added brillance of color and a sheen to the skin that is unbeleiveable. Good stuff. IF you have a problem finding it at your local ponding supply store, PM me and I can send you some. Fact is on the thrive, the Indians many years ago used the clay to settle upset stomachs and other ills.
d
The wall have a thin coat of algae, and the water is almost crystal clear, the pump sits on a rock on the bottom and picks up some of the algae from the bottom and gets stopped up. I will look for the thrive clay and add it. Our fish have no problem, we have had them for a couple years..
dannyboy
From the promised LAND
One more quick thing. Durring the winter months, when you should not be feeding your fish (below 55F water temps), they will "graze" on the algea coat. For that matter, they will graze on it all year around. They should keep it only about 1/4 to 1/2 inches long. But that keeps the algea coat healthy. Kinda like mowing the lawn. If you let it go, it very quickly becomes very unhealthy and looks terrible. Keep it mowed back, and it looks just like a green carpet.
There are many clays out there, but I prefer to use thrive. Not only is it a better value(there are some clays that are imported and cost 180 bucks a pound) at around 8 dollars for a two pound jar, but the guy that manufactures it is a UPS feeder driver, not to mention a really nice guy.
The clay is dosed at 1 TBS per 1000 gallons twice for the first two weeks, then once a week for a month or so. Then you should be able to go to every other week and still get the benifits you see with it.
I also recomend a 10% water change each week if you can afford to. I know there are some places that water is very expensive or rationed. The water changes will assist in the fishes immune system to fuction at a higher level. Just dont forget to add something to take the chlorine out. A good dechlor is Sodium Thiosulphate. Cheap (I sell enough to dechlor 5000 gallons for 75 cents) but sometimes hard to find. Stay away from the walmart dechlors. Too many people have bought theirs and had the fish die. IT seems that other people people buy the product, use it, then refill the container with water and take it back for a refund. If you happen to be the next schmuck in line..........................
d
There are many clays out there, but I prefer to use thrive. Not only is it a better value(there are some clays that are imported and cost 180 bucks a pound) at around 8 dollars for a two pound jar, but the guy that manufactures it is a UPS feeder driver, not to mention a really nice guy.
The clay is dosed at 1 TBS per 1000 gallons twice for the first two weeks, then once a week for a month or so. Then you should be able to go to every other week and still get the benifits you see with it.
I also recomend a 10% water change each week if you can afford to. I know there are some places that water is very expensive or rationed. The water changes will assist in the fishes immune system to fuction at a higher level. Just dont forget to add something to take the chlorine out. A good dechlor is Sodium Thiosulphate. Cheap (I sell enough to dechlor 5000 gallons for 75 cents) but sometimes hard to find. Stay away from the walmart dechlors. Too many people have bought theirs and had the fish die. IT seems that other people people buy the product, use it, then refill the container with water and take it back for a refund. If you happen to be the next schmuck in line..........................
d
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