Dracula

Package Car is cake compared to this...
The only time I’ll pull the red valves when I’m stopped, is if one of the red glad hands has a small air leak. You seasoned drivers know all about this, so this is for the newer guys.

That snubber, that provides extra tension between the front trailer and the eye of the dolly, will always stay engaged. Until it doesn’t. With some trailers, when you have a leaky hand valve, the air will drain completely. Usually this isn’t a problem. In most cases, the snubber stays glued to the eye of the dolly. But sometimes, if the air pressure gets too low, or the air bladder that holds the snubber in, can, at times, leak. And when it does, the snubber goes back into the trailer.

I work nights, and sleep in the tractor like a baby. But nothing wakes me from a deep sleep, more than when that snubber releases, causing the dolly and the back box to move forward those few inches, into the front box. The first time it happened, I thought someone rear-ended me. And I my racing heartbeat prevented me from getting back to my beauty rest.

Nothing irritates a night driver more than being woke up.

The good thing, is usually you’ll notice this during your pre-trip, so you know whether or not to release your red valve during your nap.

By the way, you can drive with a broken snubber, it’s just not a lot of fun. You’ll feel something different. That’s the back box bumping up against the front box. Lots of times, it means you just forgot to engage the snubber. Pull over and check.

One last thing, if it is below freezing, and wet, in rain or snow, never pull your red valve when you stop. I made that mistake once, during a nap in a snow storm. When I got ready to get back on the road, my rig wouldn’t move. I called someone, and they told me, most likely, the brake pads were frozen to the drums.

They were right. And the only way to fix it is to crawl under the trailer, with a hammer and beat on the pads until you release them.

Nothing worse than waking up from a warm sleep, to laying on freezing, wet ground, hammering metal on metal for 15 minutes.

That will never happen again.
 

Rick Ross

I'm into distribution!!
The only time I’ll pull the red valves when I’m stopped, is if one of the red glad hands has a small air leak.

Some drivers also release the trailer brakes then pull forward and release the tractor brakes. This puts tension on the 5th wheel and dolly and makes it impossible to pull the pin.

At some point you'll have a 5th wheel or dolly you won't be able to release. Do the opposite, backing up will release tension from the kingpin and allow you to pull the release lever.

Never, ever park your tractor anywhere without checking the 5th wheel and dolly before leaving. Many other drivers HATE us, they are jealous of our pay and don't consider us to be real drivers.
 

Indecisi0n

Well-Known Member
And when I say if you dont pull your yellow valve when you leave the tractor every time, I mean as a rule. When you’re pre-tripping, and the hand valve is down, nothing is going to move while you are hooked up. I’m referring in general. When you stop on the road, you don’t pull your red valve, only the yellow. If you forget it then, it could get ugly.

Just keep it in your head, opening the door, make sure that yellow valve is pulled.
I always pull both vavles when getting out.
 

Indecisi0n

Well-Known Member
The only time I’ll pull the red valves when I’m stopped, is if one of the red glad hands has a small air leak. You seasoned drivers know all about this, so this is for the newer guys.

That snubber, that provides extra tension between the front trailer and the eye of the dolly, will always stay engaged. Until it doesn’t. With some trailers, when you have a leaky hand valve, the air will drain completely. Usually this isn’t a problem. In most cases, the snubber stays glued to the eye of the dolly. But sometimes, if the air pressure gets too low, or the air bladder that holds the snubber in, can, at times, leak. And when it does, the snubber goes back into the trailer.

I work nights, and sleep in the tractor like a baby. But nothing wakes me from a deep sleep, more than when that snubber releases, causing the dolly and the back box to move forward those few inches, into the front box. The first time it happened, I thought someone rear-ended me. And I my racing heartbeat prevented me from getting back to my beauty rest.

Nothing irritates a night driver more than being woke up.

The good thing, is usually you’ll notice this during your pre-trip, so you know whether or not to release your red valve during your nap.

By the way, you can drive with a broken snubber, it’s just not a lot of fun. You’ll feel something different. That’s the back box bumping up against the front box. Lots of times, it means you just forgot to engage the snubber. Pull over and check.

One last thing, if it is below freezing, and wet, in rain or snow, never pull your red valve when you stop. I made that mistake once, during a nap in a snow storm. When I got ready to get back on the road, my rig wouldn’t move. I called someone, and they told me, most likely, the brake pads were frozen to the drums.

They were right. And the only way to fix it is to crawl under the trailer, with a hammer and beat on the pads until you release them.

Nothing worse than waking up from a warm sleep, to laying on freezing, wet ground, hammering metal on metal for 15 minutes.

That will never happen again.
My one trainer tried to get me into the habit of pulling only the yellow when stopped for that very reason (frozen brakes). I still instinctively pull both when I get out. Hopefully come winter time I will remember to just pull yellow when it's really cold out and I'll be stop for a long period of time.
 

Coldworld

Well-Known Member
My one trainer tried to get me into the habit of pulling only the yellow when stopped for that very reason (frozen brakes). I still instinctively pull both when I get out. Hopefully come winter time I will remember to just pull yellow when it's really cold out and I'll be stop for a long period of time.
Are you on
your own now or still with trainers??
 

Indecisi0n

Well-Known Member
Sounds like the air wasn’t built up enough to hold the trailer brakes. When you’re doing your pre-trip, and you set your brakes, meaning red valve (trailer brakes) in and hand valve engaged (valve down), you ALWAYS keep your yellow valve (tractor brakes) pulled out.

Anytime you step out of that tractor, always, ALWAYS, pull the yellow valve out, setting the tractor brakes. If you don’t, you’re gonna have a rollaway.

With very few exceptions, the only time your red valve will be out is when you are getting ready to separate from the trailer.

When you’re doing a pre-trip, the red valve is in, yellow valve is out and the hand valve is down. You do this for three reasons.

One, yellow valve out, to keep your equipment secure, because the tractor brakes are on.

Two, red valve in, turning on the air to the red lines, which controls the trailer brakes. You do this to check for air leaks on the red glad hands, lines and brake chambers.

Three, you drop (set) the hand valve, which is part of your service lines, same as your brake pedal. These are your blue lines and blue glad hands. This engages the trailer brakes and all of your brake lights. This lets you check for air leaks in your blue glad hands and lines, and your brake lights.

The hand valve is also used for your very last check, which is, you put it in drive, drive forward a few feet and drop it. This is to check that your trailer brakes are working. Your trailers should abruptly stop. If they slowly stop, you can still drive with them, but they should be red-tagged when you get where you’re going as, “slack adjusters need adjusting.” If the trailers don’t stop at all, then, obviously, your trailer brakes aren’t working, and you need to go to shop.

One more redundancy an old-timer showed me, is during the pre-trip, when you’re at the back trailer, turn on both of your valves below the the glad hand connections. You should hear air hissing. If not, you forgot to turn on your air, either in the cab, or at the front trailer.

I do this all by muscle memory, but typing it, I’m hoping I haven’t overlooked anything. But just remember, yellow valve out, red valve in and hand valve down. And if your hand valve won’t stay down, write it up.
Thank you. I'll be doing this from now on. Yellow out , red in , pretrip.
 

over9five

Moderator
Staff member
All I want to know is I guess how you guys check brake lights during pretrip. So many opinions haha
What kind of tractor do you have? On my Kenworth, the handvalve doesnt stay down either. BUT, there's a switch that will turn the brake lights on and apply air to the service brakes. You have to turn your key on, then flip the switch, then you can take your key out and do your pretrip. The brake lights will stay on and the air will too.
 

Indecisi0n

Well-Known Member
What kind of tractor do you have? On my Kenworth, the handvalve doesnt stay down either. BUT, there's a switch that will turn the brake lights on and apply air to the service brakes. You have to turn your key on, then flip the switch, then you can take your key out and do your pretrip. The brake lights will stay on and the air will too.
Old :censored2:ty Mack
 

Dracula

Package Car is cake compared to this...
What kind of tractor do you have? On my Kenworth, the handvalve doesnt stay down either. BUT, there's a switch that will turn the brake lights on and apply air to the service brakes. You have to turn your key on, then flip the switch, then you can take your key out and do your pretrip. The brake lights will stay on and the air will too.

Ours were like that when we first got them, but during the first PMI's, they changed them all so they would stick.
 

Dracula

Package Car is cake compared to this...
What kind of tractor do you have? On my Kenworth, the handvalve doesnt stay down either. BUT, there's a switch that will turn the brake lights on and apply air to the service brakes. You have to turn your key on, then flip the switch, then you can take your key out and do your pretrip. The brake lights will stay on and the air will too.

But again, like most rentals, that defeats the purpose of checking for air leaks. The Light Test button doesn't engage the service line brakes.
 

Coldworld

Well-Known Member
What kind of tractor do you have? On my Kenworth, the handvalve doesnt stay down either. BUT, there's a switch that will turn the brake lights on and apply air to the service brakes. You have to turn your key on, then flip the switch, then you can take your key out and do your pretrip. The brake lights will stay on and the air will too.
What does that switch look like ... maybe snap a pic for us...
 
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