EJJ
UPS Package Car Driver
I’m trying to get into that building
Ask a Feeder Driver, Feeder Driver FAQ
- Thread starter 104Feeder
- Start date
I’m trying to get into that building
EJJ
UPS Package Car Driver
Ok, so what about when you first get hired as a temporary seasonal feeder driver? What’s the training you have to go through when coming on as a seasonal driver?
olroadbeech
Happy Verified UPSer
You would have to go there and speak with HR. Every hub that i know of have different needs and/or rules. UPS almost always promotes from within. They did have a ratio of off the street hires compared to inside the building promotions but not sure if that is in the contract now.
They tell all seasonal drivers that they can get on if you work hard but I never have seen that. A couple seasonal drivers got on as managers but I would not recommend that.
Anyone that gets hired on as a seasonal feeder driver has to go thru 2 weeks of training even if you have 20 years experience in the outside world.
You need to speak to people in person as no one here can give you a definitive answer,
good luck
ManInBrown
Well-Known Member
Hey guys I’m going into my second week of feeder which I was told will be my productive week. I’m really struggling with the coupling and uncoupling steps. Can anyone help me out and tell me the steps in exact order from where I either back up on what I’m going to be pulling, and also the steps when dropping. I’d really appreciate it. I want to write them down on index cards. The whole 9 yards if possible. Pull the trailer brake here. I’m also struggling with knowing what brake to have on. If anyone can help and type the steps out I’d really appreciate it. Thx. I know it’s a lot to type out, I’m sorry. Lol
olroadbeech
Happy Verified UPSer
maybe someone will type out the instructions but in the meantime there are some videos on you tube on how to do it. just not the UPS way but may help with some helpful general information.
ManInBrown
Well-Known Member
Yeah I’d really like if someone here could type out the steps if possible. I know how to pre trip the trailer. I don’t need that step for step. I just need the order to do everything in. From beginning to end, both ways. Dropping and pulling.
silenze
Lunch is the best part of the day
Legs. Lines. Latch.
Dracula
Package Car is cake compared to this...
What you're experiencing is completely normal. NORMAL.
As long as you make sure the fifth wheels on the tractor and dolly are secure, you'll be safe.
Pre-tripping, always have your tractor brakes (yellow valve) out, trailer brakes (red valve) in, and your hand valve (service brakes and brake lights) down.
The rest of your pre-trip, even if you miss a step, will quickly become evident.
I worried like you are now, during my first few months, and I made a few mistakes, but like I told you, and old-timer told me. Make sure those fifth wheels are locked, and the rest will be obvious.
I asked the same question you asked, about the proper way to do a pre-trip. Because I was nervous. And most drivers had a slightly different way of doing it.
The key for you, is to learn the pre-trip, and do it the same way EVERY TIME. You don't need a pre-trip on index cards. It's all a matter of routine. The thing you're struggling with right now, becomes second nature with time and repetition. Just find your routine, and stick to it.
Oh, you'll make mistakes. You'll forget to crank up the legs, or forget to turn on the air to the back box, or reverse the glad hands, or forget to set your plunger. But most of these mistakes will show themselves right away, and they won't be fatal. And quickly, you'll develop a sixth sense when something isn't right.
I hooked up a set in my first month or so, and started to pull out. Something didn't feel right. It felt like it was dragging. I stopped, and looked at my brakes, and both valves were in, so I started up again and it still felt like it was dragging. So I stopped, and got out to give it a look. It was then I noticed skid marks from the tires of the rear trailer all of the way across the yard. I felt like an idiot, because I knew I forgot to turn the air valves on at the front trailer, meaning the rear trailer brakes never disengaged.
I flat-spotted the rear tires a little, nothing too serious, turned the air on, and was all good. It happens.
Just remember, verify your connections and make a pre-trip and stick to it. You'll be fine.
And no matter what anyone tells you, it takes you a good six months to a year to feel completely comfortable driving these things. You're actually safer driving a little worried. It's when you get TOO comfortable that things can get real dicey.
Sweeper
Where’s the broom?
Pre trip then reconfirm PAL when your hooking up prior to moving unit
Post trip then reconfirm LAP when your unhooking prior to moving tractor
Pin is securely locked in the jaws of the fifth wheel
Air lines and electrical are connected
Legs are raised
Legs are lowered
Air lines and electrical are disconnected
Pin is released
Following these steps every time prevents the dreaded BOOM
Each time before you grab the hand rail, to get back in the tractor, run through PAL or LAP in your head. If you think you missed a step check again.
I agree with what a lot of others have said, repetition is key. Do it the same way every time. If someone or something distracts you during your pretrip. Start over!
Last edited:
ManInBrown
Well-Known Member
Do I pre trip the trailer before I back under it, or back under it , then pre trip it, then latch and lines?
trickpony1
Well-Known Member
What would be your best guess?
Do you remember any of your training...any at all?
Do you remember any of your training...any at all?
Mugarolla
Light 'em up!
OK, here goes.
Coupling
Some people do it a little different, but all steps do get followed. You just need to have a routine and do it the same way everytime.
You said that you have the pre-trip down, so I will just do the couple and uncouple.
Assuming you already spotted your dolly, hook to the front trailer. Make sure you hear the click or clunk of the 5th wheel locking around the kingpin.
Put the tractor in 2nd gear or drive and do your tug test.
Pull out yellow knob. This sets the tractor brakes.
Get under trailer and verify jaws are locked.
Attach lines. Easier to attach furthest one first. Blue, light cord, red. (Some will crank the legs now, or apply air first and then crank legs as you pre-trip.)
Get back in tractor and push in red valve. This supplies air to the trailer releasing the spring brakes.
Pull down hand valve. This does 2 things. It engages the trailer air brakes so that you can check for any air leaks, and it also turns on the trailer brake lights.
Start your pre-trip, remembering to crank the legs up.
When done, release hand valve, push in yellow valve and away you go, not forgetting your stop test.
Back to your dolly. Pull the yellow knob to set your tractor brake.
Place dolly on pintle hook, close flapper and insert pin. Attach chains and lines. I like to start from the furthest first. I reach across dolly and attach the chain and light cord. I then attach the chain on this side, red line to the dolly and then the blue line to the trailer.
You have already verified trailer height and all that, so back under rear trailer listening for the click of the dolly. Put tractor in 2nd gear or drive and do your tug test.
Pull yellow valve, setting the tractor parking brake and pull down the hand valve. (The red valve is already in applying air to the front trailer.)
Get under rear trailer and verify jaws are locked around kingpin.
Put lines on rear trailer, blue, light cord, red.
Turn on the air valves on the front trailer to supply air to the back trailer. Turn the service valve first (blue line coming from dolly to the front trailer) This applies the brakes to the dolly and rear trailer so that it will not roll in case you have not coupled correctly.
After turning on the service valve, turn on the emergency valve, red line.
Push in the snubber and continue with your pre-trip, not forgetting to raise the trailer legs.
When you get back into tractor, release the hand valve (releasing the trailer brakes) push in the yellow valve (releasing the tractor brakes) and do your brake check again.
Uncoupling
When you stop to where you want to drop your rear trailer, pull your yellow knob (setting the tractor brakes) and pull down your hand valve (applying your trailer brakes)
However you do your post-trip, just have a routine. I always go around the front of the tractor and down the right side of the set. As I come back up the left side of the rear trailer, I can crank the legs down.
Turn off air valves on front trailer, remove the lines to the rear trailer, drain the air from the dolly, and then slide the dolly release handle to the right. (I hang my tire thumper from the dolly air drain cable to drain the air as I unhook things.)
Get back in the tractor, release the hand valve, push in the yellow valve and slowly pull out from under the rear trailer.
When you get to where you want to drop your dolly, stop and pull the yellow valve. Go back to the dolly, pull the snubber valve to release the snubber, unhook the chains and lines, remove the pin from the pintle hook, lift flapper and remove dolly.
When you get to where you want to drop your front trailer, pull the yellow knob (setting your tractor parking brake) pull the red knob (removing air to the trailer and setting the trailer spring brakes)
You don't need to pull down the hand valve since you already did your post-trip and checked your brake lights and air leaks. If you only came in with a single, you would pull the hand valve to check brake light and air leaks.
Lower legs, remove lines and pull pin on tractor 5th wheel.
Just remember, legs, lines, latch when you uncouple, and the reverse when you couple, latch, lines, legs.
@Sweeper posted this
In order to pre-trip, you need to check lights and air. Hook to it first, then pre-trip.
Last edited:
ManInBrown
Well-Known Member
Thank you
Indecisi0n
Well-Known Member
For some reason I always like to do my air lines last. I get out, check pin, raise the landing gear then go to air lines. Then begin my pretrip.
Covemastah
Hoopah drives the boat Chief !!
As long as most of the tires are round and a few lights work , you’re good to go , you don’t need to pre trip nothing , these loads are hot , if the trailer don’t fall off before you hit gate , pin is good ,,, get rolling , save the blessed on time network !!!
Yaba Daba Do
Donkey Punch Extraordinaire
I just go in order as I start walking around the trailer. Lines, pin, landing gear. When unhooking I do it the same way. I know most people do the legs first when uncoupling to be sure they don't drop a trailer but this is how I've always done and like was said earlier, make sure whatever order you do it in, is the way you do it every single time.
Mugarolla
Light 'em up!
The odds of it happening may be slim, but if you do it your way, you could drop a trailer.
If the spring brakes on the trailer did not work, or were not adjusted properly, and if you were on a little incline, the trailer could, theoretically, slide off the 5th wheel once you pulled the pin.
I know, slim to no chance, but.....
